Machine for use in the manufacture of stitch-down shoes



septz, 1930. w. A, EPPLER 1,774,747

MACHINE FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF STITCH DOWN SHOES Original Filed Dec..17, 1925 Patented Sept. 2, 1930 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE ANDREW EPPLER, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY MACHINE FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF STITCH-DOYVN SHOES Application filed December 17, 1925, Serial No. 75,973. Renewed March 8, 1930.

The invention relates to machines adapted for use in the manufacture of stitched down shoes. It is herein shown as embodied in a sewing machine adapted to stitch the welt to the out-turned upper and out sole of the shoe positioned on the last.

The primary object of this invention is to providea means for making a more perfect joint between the ends of the welt than has heretofore been feasible with present day commercial machines, in the operation of which the operator must ordinarily release the Work from the machine and trim the end of the welt by'hand before stitching it down.

With this object in view, a feature of the invention consists in the provision in a machine adapted to secure a welt progressively to the out-turned upper and sole of a stitch down shoe of a welt cutter located in the machine in position to sever the welt at a point to form a joint with the leading end of the welt at the conclusion of the welt attaching operation.

A further feature of the invention consists in an arrangement of the parts to enable'the operator. without disenga ing the work from the machine, to tell accurately at what point in the welt attaching operation to operate the welt cutting mechanism. I

The invention also consists in the devices, combinations and arrangement of parts here inafter described andclaimed.

The several features of the invention and the advantages attained thereby will be readilv understood by those skilled in the art from the following description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings in which Fig. 1 is a view in front elevation of so much of a sewing machine embodying the present invention as is necessary to show the connection of the invention therewith; Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the parts shown in Fig. 1 with the work in the machine; and Fig. 3 is a front elevation taken on the line 33 of Fig. 2.

The present invention is disclosed in the drawings as embodied in a sewing machine adapted to stitch the welt to the out-turned uppier and sole of a stitch down shoe supported upon a last. In the machine shown,

the operating parts, including a needle. an awl, a looper a thread finger and a shuttle are so arranged that the work is fed to the machine in an upright position the construction and operation of the e parts and other parts of the machine not hereinafter specifically described being'the same as the corresponding parts of the machine disclosed in the patent to Eppler, No. 533,689, dated February 5, 1.895. In embodying the present invention in the machine of said patent a welt guide and a welt cutting mechanism have been attached to the prcsser foot. A means is thus provided whereby the welt can be severed without disturbing the position of the shoe or the welt in the machine and furthermore with this arrangement the operator can see at all times how far the sewing of the welt has progressed and can tell when to operate the welt cutting mechanism so as to secure a close union between the two ends of the welt.

Referring more specifically to the drawings, the needle is indicated at il, the awl at 6, the looper with some of its actuating con nections is indicated at 8, the thread finger at 10, and the shuttle at 12. The work sup port indicated at 14, is adjustably mounted on a swinging bracket 16 by means of screws 18 the upper pivot only of the bracket being shown at 20. The presser foot indicated at 22 is secured by screws 24 to the upper part of the presser foot lever 26 which is pivotally mounted on the bracket 16'by means of stud Q8. I

The welt cutting mechanism is attached to the presser foot and consists of a knife indicated at 30 mounted to slide in an inclined slot 82 in the presser foot. A plate 34 fastened to the side of the presser foot by screws .36 acts to hold the knife in the slot, and has its lower end bent to form a guide for the welt as it is drawn past the knife down the inclined undersurface of the presser foot. The welt guide forms a bed to act in conjunc tion with the descending knife in cutting the welt.

To insure that the joint made by the two ends of the welt willnot forma bunch detrimental to the looks of the finished shoe,

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the knife and welt guide are arran ed to cut the welt at an inclination to the weit suriace downwardly in the direction of the feed so that when the two ends are placed together, their hevcls form an unbroken surface on the grain side of the welt.

F or controlling the operation of the welt cutter a rack 38 is formed on the upper part of the knife to engage a pinion ll) which is rotatably mounted on the prc s r foot by means of pin 4-2. A hand lever is is clamped on the pin 42 at the end opposite the pinion so that as the lever is ra sed t e knife descends to cut the welt. A "G stretched between a pin 48 on the pr and an eye 50 on the hand lever tends to hold the knife up in its inoperative position.

In the operation of the machine the welt is f rst pushed forward in he guide so that the stitching starts about one half inch from the end of the welt. In this manner ending the stitching at the joint, which would learn it wealn avoided. The welt is now sewed around the shoe until the first end a p j the prcsstr foot wnen at the proper women;

the operator swings the hand again the pressure of its spring can he hon" to descend and sever the welt. The snving is continued until it has passed over the joint and one half inch heyrmd to compt' thg cycle of operations. It will be seen th t the knife descending onto the welt guide is perfectly shielded from contact wi h the sole or the upper while at the same time the operator is able by watching the :elt to tell accurately when to operate the cutter.

The invention having been described what is claimed is:

1. A machine for use in the manufacture of shoes of the stitch down type having, in combination, means for seciuring a welt pro gressively to the out-turned upper and sole of a shoe while supported upon a la t, a s for supporting a. lasted shoe in posit be operated upon by the securing means for guiding a welt into position out-turned upper to be attached to th: s ported shoe by the securing means. and a welt cutter past which the welt is fed dun ing attachment for cutting the welt while the shoe is in welt attaching position at a point to form a joint with the leading end of the welt.

2. A machine for use in the nninufzu'ture of shoes of the stitch down type having, in combination, means for securing a welt progressively to the out turned uppe' and of a shoe while supported upon a means for supporting a lasted shoe in position to be operated upon by the securing means, means for guiding a welt into position on the out-turned upper to be attached to the supported shoe by the securing means, and a welt cutter past which the welt is fed during attachment arranged to cut the welt at sole an inclination to the welt surface in the direction of the feed while the shoe is in welt attaching position at a point to form a joint with the leading end of the welt.

3. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitching devices adapted to sew a welt progressively to the sole and out-turned up per of a stitch down shoe supported on alast, means for supporting a listed shoe in stitch ing position, means for guiding a welt into position on the out-turned upper to be attached to the supported sh e by the stitching devices, and a welt cutting mechanism for cutting the welt while the shoe is in stitching position at a point to form a joint with. the leading end of the welt.

l. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitching devices for sewing a welt progressively to the out-turned upper and sole of a stitch down shoe positioned on a last in an upright position, means for supporting a lasted shoe in stitching position. means for guiding a welt into position on the out-turned upper to be attached to the supported shoe hy the stitching devices and a welt cutter mounted to more at an inclination to the welt surface downward in the direction of the feed to cut the welt while the shoe is in stitching position at a point. to form a joint with the leading end of the welt.

5. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitching devices for sewing a welt to the out-turned upper and sole of a. stitch down shoe while supported on a last, a prcsser foot, and a welt guide and welt cutter mounted on the presser foot for cutting the welt at a point to form a joint with the leading end of the welt.

6. A sewing machine having, in combina tion, stitching devices adapted to sew a welt progressively to a sole and out-turned upper of a stitch down shoe while supported on a last, a presser foot, a knife for cutting the welt mounted to slide in the presser foot. :1 welt guide mounted on the presser foot to form a bed against which the knife operates in cutting the welt, and a hand lever to actuate the knife.

7. A machine for use in the manufacture of shoes of the stitch down type having, in combination, means for sec-u ring a welt progressively to an out-turned upper and sole oi a. shoe while supported upon a last. a. work support arranged to engage the surface of the sole opposite to that on which the outturned upper is laid, means for guiding the welt into position on the out-turned upper to be attached to the supported shoe by the securing means, and a welt cutter arranged to act on the welt at the opposite side of the sole and upper from the work support for cutting the welt while the shoe is in welt attaching position at a point to form a joint with the leading end of the welt.

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8. A machine for use in the manufacture of shoes of the stitch down type having, in combination, means for securing a Welt progressively to the out-turned upper and sole ofa shoe while supported upon a last, means for supporting a lasted shoe in position to be operated upon by the securing means, a welt guide arranged to direct the welt into position on the out-turned upper to be attached to the supported shoe by the securing means,

and a welt cutter arranged to act on the welt while guided by the welt guide, arranged to cut the welt while the shoe is in Welt attaching position at a point to form a joint with the leading end of the welt.

9. A sewing machine having, in combina tion, stitching devices for sewing a welt to the out-turned upper and sole of a stitch down shoe while supported on a last, a Work support arranged to engage the surface of the sole opposite to that on which the outturned upper is laid a presser foot cooperating with the Work support to guide and hold the work, a Welt guide arranged to direct the welt into position on the out-turned upper to be attached to the supported shoe by the stitching devices, and a Welt cutter arranged to act on the welt while guided by the Welt guide for cutting the welt while the shoe is in stitching position at a point to form a joint with the leading end of the Welt.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

ANDREW EPPLER. 

